Research on Preservation Techniques for Cultural Properties That Are Related to Traditional Performing Arts—Manufacturing Noh Costumes
The Department of Intangible Cultural Heritage conducts the research on the preservation techniques for cultural properties. We studied the “manufacturing Noh costumes related to Nohgaku*1” technique among various preservation techniques. Nohgaku is performed on stages, where the performers wear masks (Noh masks), costumes (Noh costumes), and other traditional items. Not only the performing arts themselves but also the techniques to support them are mandatory to inherit the intangible cultural heritage.
Mr. SASAKI Yoji (in Kyoto Prefecture) is a government –certified technique holder who has mastered the techniques to manufacture Noh Costumes, moreover these selected preservation techniques are certified by the national government. Mr. SASAKI, who is the fourth president of Sasaki Noh Robes (founded in 1897), manufactures Noh costumes with Nishijin’s*2 traditional handlooms equipped with the Jacquard machine*3 for each order. Noh costumes come in various forms, styles, and patterns and are selected for each drama. Most of them exhibit gorgeous designs, which include shining silk and gold and silver threads, to stand out on the stage. Thus, manufacturing requires highly skilled technique holders to perform weaving techniques to meet the subtle demands of Noh performers.
We interviewed Mr. SASAKI Yoji and recorded each process of manufacturing Noh costumes; the recording included still pictures and videos. We plan to publish a leaflet named “Techniques to support Japanese traditional performing arts” based on the outcomes of this research.
*1. Nohgaku is one of the traditional styles of Japanese theater. It includes the lyric drama noh, and the comic theater kyogen (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N%C5%8Dgaku)
*2. Nishijin: is a district in Kamigyō-ku, Kyoto, Japan. It is well known for traditional textiles which are often referred to as Nishijin-ori (西陣織) (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nishijin)
*3. Jacquard machines control movements of warps by punch cards to generate complex patterns. They are not powered automatic looms. Sasaki Noh Robes manually develop clothes (using hands) using handlooms equipped with Jacquard machines.