The question of whether clothing, other
cloth artifacts, or cloth itself constitute "art works" is
provoking but remains so far unanswered. As a textile historian, working
on the margins of "art," this question has in turn cast doubt for me
on the usefulness and meaning of the designation of an object as a "work
of art."
The minsa-obi, a narrow, indigo-dyed
ikat-patterned cotton sash, may be one of those artifacts destined never
to be designated an "art work." It has been admired for its aesthetic
qualities, although this admiration has been bound by the problematic
term, mingei. As such, no one has examined the layers of value
accrued to it over time among the people who have made and used it.
The minsa- sash has not been collected
by Japan's national museums, and is not even widely represented in collections
of so-called "folk art." As a Moving Object, unlike objects within the
value system of "art works" its motion has not been primarily spatial:
transfer from the producers hands to art collections, or from
one region to another. Rather, still made and worn on five islands in
Yaeyama, it has moved across boundaries of class, usage, meaning, and
technology.
Unfortunately, the precise points at which
it has undergone movement in space exist primarily in a series of lacunae,
defined by their beginning and end points. How the technology and design
of the sash was transmitted among the islands of Yaeyama, and, perhaps
more importantly, how and from where they entered Yaeyama in the first
place, remain obscure. The single documented instance of spatial transfer
(1876) indicates that a local government official in Yaeyama brought
a number of minsa- sashes as presents to members of the gentry
and nobility in Shuri (Okinawa Island), the location of the Ryûkyû
monarchy. The significance of this event lies in its establishing the
association of the sash with the gentry, as opposed to the commoner
(heimin), class. In fact, its spatial movement was only temporary, in
the sense that it did not instigate production outside of Yaeyama.
On the other hand, it is clear that as
the sash has moved through time, it has undergone complex changes of
context and meaning, as well as concrete transformations of design and
material.
My paper will examine these transformations
of the minsa- sash, pointing out the spatial lacunae, from its
earliest documented association with the Ryûkyûan gentry
immediately before Japan's annexation of the kingdom in 1879, to its
use today by the people of Taketomi, Kohama, Ishigaki, Iriomote, and
Yonaguni as a symbol of their constructed identity as "simple island
people." This recent valuation of the sash as symbol has been intentional,
involving community-based as well as outside commercial development
and political utilization.
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