This study of twelve tsujigahana
textile fragments reveals a complex set of entangled histories acquired
throughout their four-hundred-year travel through time and space. They
once shared a single existence as a garment, likely worn by a high ranking
member of sixteenth-century society. Subsequently, the garment was fragmented
and made into an alter cloth, crossing the border from a secular to
a sacred context. By the late nineteenth through mid-twentieth century,
the sacred cloth was dismembered and established separate narratives
as collectible objects in the hands of individual collectors. Currently,
the fragments again share a common history through their classification
by modern scholars as tsujigahana. These fragments exist today
in museum and private collections, divorced from their original sixteenth-century
function as clothing. By tracing the history of a group of Japanese
textile fragments, this paper examines the selective processes that
transformed a secular garment into a rarefied museum object.
Based on their stylistic and technical
affinity with other sixteenth-century textiles produced using similar
decorative techniques, the twelve fragments highlighted in this study
are today categorized as tsujigahana, poetically translated as
"flowers at the crossroad". The economic and aesthetic value
presently ascribed to these fragments is intimately connected to their
designation as tsujigahana. Fragments and garments bearing the
tsujigahana label maintain their status as highly coveted objects
in today's art market. Yet, the current interpretation of tsujigahana
as a specific combination of textile techniques is a modern construct
that conflates the enigmatic sixteenth-century term with a twentieth-century
meaning.
The methodology employed in this paper
focusing on an object-in-motion within distinct temporal and spatial
contexts exposes information concealed by more traditional approaches
to the study of Japanese textiles and casts this group of fragments
in a new light. The historicized view of these textiles and the term
used to label them challenges modern constructs that link the word tsujigahana
to garments previously owned by famous military men. Rather, garments
reassembled from fragments provide new evidence for the study of sixteenth-century
clothing history and feature women and young men as the primary wearers
of tsujigahana. Additionally, tracing the transfiguration from
garment to fragments highlights the economic and numinous qualities
of cloth as ritual offerings in the practice of donating a deceased's
clothing to temple. Moreover, this object-based approach establishes
previously unexplored social connections between painters, dyers, and
dealers of the modern era who collected tsujigahana textiles
and contributed to the metamorphosis of fragments labeled as tsujigahana
into cultural relics. The transformed shape, function, and value of
these fragments represent significant imprints left on the historical
record by subsequent generations and reveal the process through which
tsujigahana textiles were preserved and acquired their cultural
significance.
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